So, the electric co-op where my wife Lester works had their first-ever Employee Chili Cook-Off. To my enormous pride and absolutely zero surprise:
From: XXXXXXX
Sent: Friday, October 30, 2009 1:11 PM
To: All Employees
Subject: The Green Chili First Place Trophy goes to…
LESTER!!!
Chile verde (in English: green chile or “chili” to the inveterate gringos among us) is not just food, but a veritable way of life in Colorado. You can’t escape the stuff; like gumbo in Cajun country or barbecue in KC it is ubiquitous, and not just in our abundant Mexican eateries. Go to a hot dog stand around here and order a “chili dog”, you will be asked, “Red or green?”. Diners serve it, for God’s sake. If you were to go to one of the Greek joints down on Colfax and order gyros, it’s even money that chile verde would be among the available add-ons.
And of course, every home cook believes their recipe is best, but in Lester’s case it’s true. (Not that she’s conceited about it — she’s quite surprised by her win. But again, I am not.)
For those unfamiliar, it is a pleasantly spicy Mexican pork stew, but calling it that is like calling the Mona Lisa “a drawing”. Here are the basics: dice up some pork in small cubes — we like to buy whole loin and hold the center out for barbecue, dicing up the tapered ends of the roast — and brown it in some oil or bacon drippings, throwing in some flour, tomato sauce, garlic, and diced onion. Then add 3 or so cups of water, some cumin, and then the chopped peppers of your choice (some use jalapenos, others roasted Sandia or Hatch chiles — the varieties are many and the subject of much debate). Thicken it up with some more flour if desired and simmer for at least an hour, but the longer you simmer the better. Serve it in a bowl with warm flour tortillas, or — the far more prevalent method in these parts — smother your favorite burritos, enchiladas or chiles rellenos with it. Rare is the Mexican restaurant that doesn’t serve the above and several more menu items this way as a default.
So just as any traveler to St. Louis absolutely must try any of the local ribs, or visitors to the Chesapeake Bay region the many great things they do with blue crabs, you can’t taste Colorado without you try at least three different sources of green chile. It is by far our best local culinary tradition, because any idiot anywhere can dice up ham, bell pepper and onion and throw it in an omelet.
But if you want to try Lester’s chile verde, definitely make a reservation. The last of what’s left from her award-winning batch above? She’s bringing it home to me.
